East Wind Snack Shop: Chasing the Perfect Dumpling
An interview with Chef Chris Cheung of East Wind Snack Shop in Brooklyn
At East Wind Snack Shop, dumplings aren’t just a dish—they’re an obsession. Chef Chris Cheung, the chef and owner behind this Park Slope gem, has spent years perfecting his dumplings. With each dumpling made to order—from dough prep to filling—East Wind Snack Shop has earned a reputation for meticulously crafted bites that blend Chinese tradition with a modern twist. “I’ve spent years chasing the perfect dumpling,” Chris says, his dedication evident in every step.
A Culinary Journey from Chinatown to NYC’s Finest Kitchens
Chris’s journey started in NYC’s Chinatown, where he grew up surrounded by Cantonese flavors. This early exposure led him to cooking school, and soon after, to some of New York’s top kitchens. Working alongside legends like Morimoto at Nobu and Jean-Georges at Vong, Chris learned techniques that would define his style. He even appeared with Anthony Bourdain on No Reservations and judged on Beat Bobby Flay.
The Story of East Wind Snack Shop
When East Wind Snack Shop first opened its doors, Chris Cheung had an ambitious vision. His original menu featured more than 25 items, each crafted with care. But as word spread and lines began forming out the door, it quickly became clear that East Wind was attracting more attention than he anticipated. To meet demand and uphold his commitment to quality, Chris streamlined the menu, narrowing it down to the items he felt most passionate about. This shift allowed him to focus intensely on his ultimate culinary quest: creating the perfect dumpling.
What followed was a year-long journey of experimentation, refinement, and relentless dedication. "I took my one day off each week to really immerse myself in trying to make the perfect dumplings," Chris recalls. He broke down every element—from the dough texture to the filling ratio to the exact timing of each step. Chris meticulously studied flour types for the ideal bounce and pliability, experimented with resting times, and even ground his own meat to ensure a consistent, savory filling.
His hard work paid off with the creation of East Wind’s now-signature Juicy Pork Dumpling, a bestseller that captures the essence of his pursuit for perfection. But Chris didn’t stop there. He went on to innovate, partnering with Pat LaFrieda to craft a Dry-Aged Beef Potsticker—a unique offering and a rarity in Chinese cuisine. “As far as I know, I’m the only chef making Chinese-style dumplings with dry-aged beef,” he says. The result is a dumpling with a rich, bold flavor that adds a new dimension to the classic recipe.
Chris’s dedication to perfecting dumplings also led him to reimagine traditional items. His take on Har Gow—the classic shrimp dumpling—is a crowd favorite. Maintaining the traditional translucent dough and minimalist filling of shrimp and bamboo shoots, he added a crispy tapioca skirt, giving it a unique texture while staying true to its roots. This twist didn’t go unnoticed; New York Magazine praised him for “tricking out one of the world’s most classic dumplings.”
Beyond dumplings, East Wind Snack Shop features a selection of carefully crafted Chinese snacks that echo the comforting flavors of a Chinese street market. Taiwanese Pork Buns, Chili Ribs, and Wonton Noodle Soup round out the menu, each dish showcasing the traditional techniques and flavors that Chris has perfected over his career.
Advice from Chef Chris
With decades of experience, Chris doesn’t shy away from offering advice to aspiring restaurateurs. “Buckle up,” he says with a laugh. “It’s a relentless business that demands everything you’ve got.” For him, success is all about passion, resilience, and putting in the work. Long nights, early mornings, and a dedication to culinary perfection have shaped his career, and he wouldn’t have it any other way.
Looking Ahead: One Dumpling at a Time
While East Wind Snack Shop keeps thriving, Chris is focused on perfecting what he already loves rather than rapid expansion. “We’re always trying to be better,” he says. “Every dumpling, every dish, it’s a chance to improve.” For fans of Chinese snacks or anyone curious about the artistry behind the perfect dumpling, East Wind Snack Shop is a taste of tradition, reimagined by one of NYC’s most passionate chefs.